HONOLULU (KHON2) – Light and variable winds are then expected to develop across the state Monday through Wednesday as a surface ridge moves across the region and a cold front approaches the state from the northwest.As the pressure gradient weakens the lighter winds will allow for the development of local daytime sea breezes, with isolated leeward and interior showers, and nighttime land breezes.These afternoon sea breezes could bring some much need moisture to the drier leeward portions of the islands.Guidance continues to show a weak cold front moving across the islands on Thursday.Light to occasionally moderate showers associated with this front are expected to be brief as it quickly moves across the state and dissipates Thursday night into Friday.Winds look to then strengthen a bit out of the north behind the front and become northeasterly by Friday.Light to moderate northeast to east trade winds look to return by next weekend bringing the return of scattered windward and mauka showers.A very intense storm developed between Japan and the Aleutian islands yesterday, and a series of additional storms is expected to form in a similar area every two to three days during the next week.The first of several large long-period northwest swells will build through the day on Tuesday and will produce surf well above High Surf Advisory levels by Tuesday night and Wednesday.Surf will likely exceed High Surf Warning levels Thursday into next weekend if conditions evolve as projected.Seas should also surpass the SCA threshold of 10 feet for waters exposed to the large swells.Copyright 2024 Nexstar Media, Inc. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed. For the latest news, weather, sports, and streaming video, head to KHON2.

Large surf in the forecast for north and west shores

HONOLULU (KHON2) – Light and variable winds are then expected to develop across the state Monday through Wednesday as a surface ridge moves across the region and a cold front approaches the state from the northwest.As the pressure gradient weakens the lighter winds will allow for the development of local daytime sea breezes, with isolated […]

HONOLULU (KHON2) – Light and variable winds are then expected to develop across the state Monday through Wednesday as a surface ridge moves across the region and a cold front approaches the state from the northwest.As the pressure gradient weakens the lighter winds will allow for the development of local daytime sea breezes, with isolated leeward and interior showers, and nighttime land breezes.These afternoon sea breezes could bring some much need moisture to the drier leeward portions of the islands.Guidance continues to show a weak cold front moving across the islands on Thursday.Light to occasionally moderate showers associated with this front are expected to be brief as it quickly moves across the state and dissipates Thursday night into Friday.Winds look to then strengthen a bit out of the north behind the front and become northeasterly by Friday.Light to moderate northeast to east trade winds look to return by next weekend bringing the return of scattered windward and mauka showers.A very intense storm developed between Japan and the Aleutian islands yesterday, and a series of additional storms is expected to form in a similar area every two to three days during the next week.The first of several large long-period northwest swells will build through the day on Tuesday and will produce surf well above High Surf Advisory levels by Tuesday night and Wednesday.Surf will likely exceed High Surf Warning levels Thursday into next weekend if conditions evolve as projected.Seas should also surpass the SCA threshold of 10 feet for waters exposed to the large swells.Copyright 2024 Nexstar Media, Inc. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed. For the latest news, weather, sports, and streaming video, head to KHON2.