A family adventure sailing through the Corinth Canal

The timing was tight. I took the call 24 hours before we were due to fly. Alex kindly asked me if she could help stock the boat. We were scheduled to join our Seafarer yacht in Kiato after midnight and to sail first thing in the morning. Alex sent a link to a local Greek supermarket. I tapped a few items on my phone – the Greek alphabet blurring my choices. The goods would be delivered to the boat and stowed for the trip. Unbelievable service! And so our family sailing holiday began.

We boarded the Bavaria 37 Stairway to Heaven, rather nicely named, at 0130 – Alex, the first mate, gallantly stayed up to greet us. This holiday would help us – Milen, Siena, Christian and myself – hone our sailing skills as a family while exploring a more challenging sailing area rich in classical history.

The Seafarer flotilla back in Kiato. Photo: Heather Prentice

To the Saronic Gulf

We set off early, heading through the Corinth Canal for the sheltered bay at the village of Korfos on the western side of the Saronic Gulf. As we headed out beyond Kiato harbour, the wind whipped up to around Force 6 – a lot of white water for a first day.

The lead boat Argo, helmed by South Africans Keenan and Nathan, led the small fleet through the four miles of the Corinth Canal. For us, this was the first time and it was spectacular – azure water the colour of the sky, towering cliffs and road and railway bridges high above us.

Someone was playing music on one of the bridges. The awe-inspiring 250ft sandstone cliffs also carry the distinctive marks of ancient chiselling dating from Nero’s first attempt to dig the canal in 67 AD.

The transit at a measured 6 knots took around 45 minutes. Once we were through, the seven yachts spread out. The wind was still strong so we sailed with a reefed main and had some fun dodging between the cargo ships anchored in a holding pattern at the top of the Saronic Gulf.

Keenan (left) and Nathan, who led the Seafarer fleet. Photo: Heather Prentice

As the evening approached, the wind abated and we switched on the engine. We were determined to sail as much as possible, but not to arrive after dinner! We chose to anchor in the bay of Korfos, preferring the tranquility and the beautiful views to the quayside. The first thing we did was to go swimming off the boat. The water was warm and clear. Siena and Christian loved jumping off the stern platform. I swam a slow, lazy arc round a neighbouring boat.

Later we took the dinghy ashore, gliding silently through the water powered by the electric outboard. We joined Alex, Nathan and Keenan and our fellow crews from around the UK for welcome drinks, accompanied by delicious local cheeses and snacks. We then walked to a local restaurant. The charming proprietor of our chosen taverna decided our choice of food was not correct: instead he brought out a Greek salad, fried courgettes, spinach, tzatziki, followed by two seafood platters with calamari, sardines, whitebait and small prawns. So much better.

Breakfast in the cockpit is always a joy. It was interesting as my order choices meant we had ice cream, not yoghurt, almond butter and a few other oddities to choose from as well as the bread and homemade jam in the welcome pack from Seafarer.

The family sailing through the Corinth Canal – Heather, Christian, Milen and Siena. Photo: Heather Prentice

We set sail for Old Epidavros, passing the sunken city which lies two metres under the sea, near the shore south of Korfos. Archaeologists reported the ruins are the remains of a Roman villa dating from the second century. There was no wind today and the water was glassy calm. On our way, we saw tuna fish leaping out of the water – a welcome surprise.

We arrived in Old Epidavros in time for a shaded lunch aboard. We decided to go scuba diving. For Christian and Siena this would be the first time. After an introduction, safety procedures and learning the hand signals for octopus and lionfish, we motored around the headland.

There, instructor Vicky took Siena and Christian by the hand and led them gradually down to the sea bed below. ‘It took us a little bit of time, but we ended up going eight metres down on our first dive, which was quite crazy,’ Siena recounted. ‘Underwater we saw lionfish, giant sea urchins, octopus and ancient stone vases and some Roman pottery,’ Christian added. ‘Quite amazing.’

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