My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine,” dedicates three chapters to Maine’s best Nordic skiing. While descending a moderately steep grade in icy, groomed tracks, I experienced my first fall of the season when unable to slow sufficiently on a sharp turn and lost control. Another impediment, climbing the slick […]
My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine,” dedicates three chapters to Maine’s best Nordic skiing.While descending a moderately steep grade in icy, groomed tracks, I experienced my first fall of the season when unable to slow sufficiently on a sharp turn and lost control. Another impediment, climbing the slick hills was very demanding.
The following day brought more complications at the Nordic ski center. Overnight, snow-laden trees exposed to powerful winds resulted in numerous blowdowns blocking many trails. Crews at the center only had time to clear the same two trails open the previous day. Five of us decided try our luck.
Rain in Beaupre was the disappointing beginning of New Year’s Day. However, the ski center website indicated two trails were open and groomed. Since the facility is located at a higher elevation about 5 miles from Beaupre, two members of the group drove north to obtain a first-hand assessment. About 2 miles uphill, the rain turned to wet snow.Bruce Weik begins a turn at Mont Sainte Anne Cross Country Ski Center. Ron Chase photos
Continuing south, we cruised along on gentle terrain until crossing a bridge over the Jean Larose River. Again skiing north, the headwind slowed our progress and limited visibility. The wet snow covered trail signs, so determining the correct route was difficult. Our intent was to continue north until connecting with Trail 34; however, we accidentally followed a one-way return loop.
Ken Gordon snowplows to a stop on Trail 37.
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Three of us decided to brave the elements. We weren’t alone as there were a modest number of determined skiers gathered at the ski center lodge when we arrived.
On our second try, we made the proper turn and proceeded north until joining hilly Trail 34. Shortly after, we began a long, steep climb that required using the herringbone technique near the top.
The weather was uncooperative when we traveled to Quebec. Heavy rain fell much of the day and into the evening forcing the ski center to close the trails for maintenance on New Year’s Eve. We spent the day canyon hiking instead.
Only three of us chose to complete a second loop. In the interim, the wind had toppled another tree obstructing part of Trail 34 at about the midway point. The threat of falling trees presented another potential hazard. Fortunately, we made it safely to the lodge without incident.Persisting uphill, we passed under a power line in an open field before angling west. We glided easily over a relatively level landscape before turning south and plummeting down a steep decline, again crossing a bridge over Jean Larose River.
Skiers start out on Trail 37 at Monte Sainte Anne Cross Country Ski Center in Sainte-Ferreol-les-Neiges.
Heavy, wet snow was a challenge on day one at Mont Sainte Anne Cross Country Ski Center.
Despite the many obstacles, we managed to salvage two days of skiing and a day of canyon hiking during our Quebec visit — but it wasn’t easy.
Only Trails 37 and 34 were open, but they were well-groomed for classic and skate skiing and provided a hilly loop approximating 10 kilometers. We began classic skiing north following Trail 37 on a fast surface with wind-driven snow blowing in our faces. Hoods provided some protection but true relief came when we turned south.
Although the trails were expertly groomed, cold temperatures resulted in fast sometimes icy surfaces. And the gusty winds continued.
We reserved a condo in the village of Beaupre at the foot of the mountain a short distance from the Monte Sainte Anne Cross Country Ski Center in Sainte-Ferreol-les-Neiges. In the days leading up to our arrival, the ski center reported adequate snow and a majority of the trails were open and groomed, an improvement over anything in Maine.
Quality Nordic skiing has been difficult to find this winter. Seven Mainers planned three days of skiing near Mont Sainte Anne in Quebec over the recent New Year’s week. Situated farther north, our hope was the higher latitude would offer deeper snow levels.
Ron Chase resides in Topsham. His latest book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” is available at northcountrypress.com/maine-al-fresco or in bookstores and through online retailers. His previous books are “The Great Mars Hill Bank Robbery” and “Mountains for Mortals — New England.” Visit his website at ronchaseoutdoors.com or he can be reached at ronchaseoutdoors@comcast.net.
With strong winds propelling us from behind, we enjoyed a primarily downhill ski for several kilometers. The final, long descent double-poling to the lodge was particularly exhilarating. After warming up and partially drying out, we did it all over again.
