Within the forest, they maintained their life as sedentary hunter-gatherers with a partially matriarchal social structure, continuing their animist beliefs and complex initiation rites. The natural barriers of the islands also benefited the other living creatures inhabiting the archipelago.
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We met a lovely man speaking perfect French. Fidel warmly invited us to sit around a delicious communal dish. We chatted for a long time. On the next day, his children took us fishing. An intense day.Situated at the mouth of many rivers in Guinea-Bissau, the Bijagos archipelago is one of Africa’s most isolated maritime regions. Strong tides, violent currents, murky waters, rocky reefs, constantly shifting sandbanks and unstable winds make access difficult both from the sea and from the continent.
Pulling the dinghy up a totally deserted beach. Photo: Maxence and Victor Ansquer
Such were the few pieces of information we gathered. What more could we ask for? Having departed from Brittany in November on a transatlantic voyage that would have seen our crew part ways in South America, we’d tacked upon reaching the Canaries.
The Portuguese never fully overcame these obstacles. Until the country’s independence in 1973, the Bijago people resisted colonisation by retreating into the islands.YM is packed with information to help you get the most from your time on the water.
During their world voyage, brothers Maxence and Victor Ansquer enjoy cruising around the Bijagos islands.
The first night on an unfamiliar boat can be a bit restless. You listen to the creaks and groans of…
Hiking through an isolated palm forest. Photo: Maxence and Victor AnsquerFortunately, luck and some organisation helped us out: we shifted our weight to the best side and our floating home found a stable position without suffering any damage. We got what we came for, and then some: we would lose two anchors later on, victims to the currents and invisible rocks. Treacherous waters indeed!
Frustrated to sail along western Africa without stopping, we’d veered towards Dakar. Upon arrival, Victor voiced the idea that had been hovering: what if we sailed around the world?
The next day, we landed in Bubaque. The first contact with reality was unsettling: the poverty was striking. We wandered on a winding path through a bit of forest that led us to a village.
In one evening we sketched a loop on the map, uniting our dreams and thirst for adventure. The Bijagos were a few days sail away, we would start there! In retrospect, our month-long stay was rich enough to write an entire book.
Max and Victor Ansquer are brothers who are circumnavigating the globe via the three capes. Photo: Maxence and Victor Ansquer
Enjoying Bijagos hospitality. Photo: Maxence and Victor Ansquer
Locals passing on their fishing knowledge in the mangroves. Photo: Maxence and Victor Ansquer
and Gilbert Arenas DISAGREES 
| First Take
