Conventional wisdom says fashion trends circle back in 20-year cycles. But in the age of social media, they move at hyperspeed. Crocs are booming, Casio watches are back, and baggy jeans have gone so far we’re seeing a resurgence in JNCOs.

Rudolph “Bong” Sigua has been ahead of these shifts for decades. The 43-year-old owner of Valencia Street boutique Big Time Vintage has become a go-to tastemaker for brands, like Levi’s and The North Face, that increasingly look to the past for inspiration. (As for his own brand, “Bong” is a common nickname in the Filipino American community, not a reference to cannabis.)

But it’s Sigua’s enormous, under-the-radar, by-appointment-only warehouse in the Bayview that has won him celebrity acclaim. An inconspicuous presence along the industrial corridor of auto-body shops and overpasses, the studio houses wall-to-wall racks of clothes that draw an A-list clientele, including Drake, Lil Yachty, Tyler, the Creator, and a bevy of NBA players.